Unless company only offer a stage 1 kit for a certain bike, company stage 1 cams are normally a low to mid-range cam. Company stage 2 cams are mid to top-end cams.
Yes, but anytime an aftermarket ignition will let the engine rev to a higher RPM than stock, it is a good idea to install stiffer valve springs.
4140 cold rolled steel.
Only an experienced technician should degree your cam. Do not attempt if not experienced.
Due to the variations that may come into effect when tuning an engine (i.e. pipes, intake, altitude, cams, displacement, standard or high compression pistons, etc.) company CANNOT offer jetting recommendations.
Yes, but there will be minimal power changes. By installing both the intake and exhaust Hot Cams you will see about a 9% power increase.
Yes, you will install the stock decompression mechanism onto the Hot Cam.
No. KTM uses an odd size valve shim on their 250F, and the bigger models don’t use shims.
Yes, you will install the stock decompression mechanism onto your new Hot Cam.
Yes.
No, the Raptor does not have a tachometer. Yamaha uses this engine design in the SZR660, which is only available in Europe and does use a tachometer.
Yes, you install the stock decompression mechanism onto your new Hot Cam.
No, the sprockets are different. We offer the 4002-1IN and 4035-1E specifically designed for the YZF400/426.
No, the 4022-1E and the 4044-1E cams have the identical cam profile. The only difference is the decompression pin height. The pin height is shorter for the engines with electric start. The electric starter will not turn the engine (with stock compression) over fast enough to build enough compression to start.
Yes, the cam sprocket is not installed so that the decompression mechanism can be installed onto the new Hot Cam.
No, there is a spring and pin located in the head that lubricates the stock decompression mechanism, this also must be removed.
All other applications will require the piston to valve clearance to be inspected.
It is not recommended for big bore kits over 426cc.
No, there is also a spring and pin in an oil passage in the head that needs to be removed.
There are two ways to do this. After the valve clearances have been adjusted: 1) Using two separate feeler gauges, a .011” and a .014”, insert the .011” feeler gauge in between the rocker arm and the shim on the right side exhaust valve. Leave the feeler gauge in this position while using the .014” feeler gauge to adjust the decompression arm gap. 2) After you have set your exhaust valve clearance to .011”, remove the feeler gauge. Rest the rocker arm on the shim. Now use a .025” feeler gauge to set the gap between the rocker arm and decompression arm.
In some cases the decompression arm may need to be adjusted to compensate for variances in manufacture tolerances and/or engine wear. If the engine turns over too easily and backfires, the decompression clearance may need to be opened up slightly. If the engine turns over hard, the clearance may need to be closed up slightly.