If you log into your account on the website, you will be able to see the current status of your order. If you have any questions about your order, feel free to get in touch!
Yes! In most cases, spare parts are available. Please send an email detailing exactly what it is you need, with pictures if possible, and will get back to you with the cost and availability of the part.
What we aim to do is limit the amounts of damage caused by a crash, and hopefully save you more money in repair bills. There will almost certainly be damage of some kind but they greatly reduce your risk. If you bike is cartwheeling down the road, unfortunately there is not a lot that can be done.
No, this is a gimmick that had briefly appeared on the market. The problem with this is that a spinning protector will often keep the bike moving for longer in a crash, while the idea of R&G protectors is to scrub speed as quickly as possible and thus minimise damage.
Technically, yes, but so do virtually all modifications (even the fitting of many “Genuine accessories”), and your claim for a rusting exhaust can hardly be connected. The manufacturer would lose in a court battle.
R&G kits are designed to take stresses away from the frame, through the use of bobbins and de-embrittled bolts. They are also attached to the strongest part of the frame limiting the amount of force put through the frame in the event of a crash.
No, none of our kits require you to make any frame modifications. The kits are designed to be as easy to fit as possible with little to no modifications.
On some bikes no. On some bikes one side, on some bikes both sides. The hole is covered as it is only the “neck” of the protector which goes through the fairing. If you need to drill the fairing, it will be detailed on website and in the instructions.
The aero crash protectors that require fairing to be drilled, need a 28mm hole. This is cut using a hole saw or starrett cutter. These cutters are available from DIY stores or from our website (p/n HS0001RE)
No, if the cutter is sharp it will go through it nice and cleanly. Modern OEM fairings are incredibly flexible and don’t crack or splinter when cut correctly.
When fitting the crash protectors, remove the fairing, unwind main engine bolt and dab some paint on it. Replace the fairing and you will now you have a guide mark. Drill a pilot hole from the inside of the fairing outwards. Flip the fairing around and drill the appropriate hole from the outside of the fairing inwards. There is no template because the method described is more accurate – fairings vary too much in their mass production for us to give one template that will be good for all.
Most screw holes are not a strong mounting point. The kit is only as good as the strength of the mounting point. Use mounting points that will withstand the impact of a motorcycle hitting the road, without cracking or bending.
Understand that you want to keep the bike as original looking as possible, but you also want to ride and enjoy it. The crash protectors are much more cost effective than trying to source a new fairing panel! It may also be the difference between riding the bike home and waiting for recovery.
No, not these days. It is such a common and sensible precaution to fit crash protection that it is seen as an enhancement. Take a look at the bikes the next time you are at a bike café and see how many people a using our protection! Leave them on the bike if you sell though!
There are many differences, apart from the aesthetics. The main difference is that mushrooms normally mount into the easiest mount the company could find. These are rarely strong mounting points and in a significant spill, will lead to the mushroom pinging off and often cracking the fairing as it does so. If you want to protect your bike, you may as well buy in confidence that find out the bargain “mushrooms” have done more damage than good!
Brackets will ‘give” in many crash scenarios, and can dent the frame and/or allow the protector to push onto the fairing and crack it. Use some brackets, but they are substantial and mount to more than one position to give the support required.
The kit has been packed correctly. Use the included rawlbolt on the LHS and use the existing swingarm pivot nut on the RHS to fit the crash protection.
R&G do not provide these as the use of compression sleeves inside the bobbins enables adequate tightening of the bolts and the bolts will stay secure. For peace of mind use some Loctite or similar. Do not put bodyweight behind tightening as this can damage the bolt and even strip threads in your engine, leading to expensive repair work. In any situation DO NOT exceed 40 Nm of torque. For engine bolts, please consult the owner’s manual as they generally detail torque settings for your machine. You can use the following as a general guide for different bolt sizes.
general torque settings
M4 BOLT = 8Nm
M5 BOLT = 12Nm
M6 BOLT = 15Nm
M8 BOLT = 20Nm
M10 BOLT = 40Nm
The Bandit’s engine is not supported at the top, and therefore these forms of protectors can in some circumstances tear off the cylinder head, leading to an insurance write off.
Aluminium protectors can produce sparks when in contact with tarmac, which is highly dangerous next to a possible leaking fuel from the overflow pipes! These are also prone to “digging in” (possibility to flip the bike) as they do not wear in the same way that our protectors do.
In most cases there is not a suitable mounting point and the fitment would hinder rear braking and gear changing, but there are some that we can produce. Please see the website for the current fitments.
Yes you do, and no it won't. Almost all competitive superbikes have this modification and if it weakened the swingarm it would not be mandatory for ACU rules. If you are not confident in doing it yourself, please get a qualified mechanic to do it for you!
Yes that is true. The provide a replacement bottle in the kit which has been modified with a plastic-welded trim or hole. This allows the crash protector to fit properly and in such a place as to maximise protection.