When installing the BRUTE III Belt Drive...
Be sure that the diaphragm spring retainer has the flat side facing away from the bike, and the beveled side faces the spring.
Be sure that the pressure plate is sitting flat against the last steel drive plate and is not touching the mainshaft nut.
Be sure that a steel plate goes in first and a steel plate goes in last before the pressure plate.
Be sure to check the diaphragm spring attitude by placing a straight edge across the face of the spring. The spring should be slightly convex with about .010 to .025 of daylight on both sides of the straight edge. On higher performance applications set the spring with .035-.040.
Be sure the belt has approximately ½ " to 1" of total free play.
Enclosed belt drives need to be vented to ensure longer belt and clutch life and the more venting the better. We recommend the TC-028-C inspection cover and the TC-020-C derby cover.
Always check the following prior to running an enclosed belt drive: Pulley alignment, Belt tension, Oil-free environment, Sufficient venting
Cam duration helps to determine what point in the power band you'll get the best performance; 220 to 230 will produce the best low-end performance. 240 to 250 duration will produce the best mid-range performance. 260 duration and up will produce the best top end horsepower.
Duration is the amount of time in crankshaft degrees that the valve is open (at a specified amount e.g.: .053"), while the lifter is in motion.
An increase in compression ratio or a decrease in camshaft duration will increase cylinder pressure.
Lift helps produce torque and horsepower (up to the point at which the heads no longer flow effectively).
Overlap of thirty degrees or less normally produces the best low end.
The tighter the centerline the shorter the power band; the wider the centerline the wider the power band.
When installing a new cam always put a thin coat of a non-moly type assembly lube onto all machined metal surfaces and install a new Torrington bearing. Check cam cover to case alignment, as well as cam bushing and bearing fit, and check tappet rollers for any unusual wear and replace as necessary.
Cam end play should be no less than .003 and no more than .015.
Always check cam gear to pinion gear fit.
If the cam gear pitch is to tight to the pinion gear pitch, the gears will produce a whine. If the gear pitch is too loose it may produce a sound similar to lifter noise.
A proper clutch adjustment should be done as follows:
Turn out the cable adjustment until the clutch lever rests against the grip. Thread the center adjusting screw into the pressure plate until the clutch lever just starts to move very slightly away from the grip, then turn the center screw out ¼ of a turn and lock the center adjusting screw jam nut firmly against the pressure plate. Now adjust the clutch cable: A black cable will have approx. 1/8" free play from the clutch cable ferrule to the clutch lever perch A braided cable will have almost no free play.
Problem My starter just clicks every now and again. When the jackshaft and ring gear are perfectly aligned it takes very little amperage to engage the starter. When they aren't aligned perfectly it can take up to 40 amps to compress the 3 springs (jackshaft, clutch, solenoid) so the jackshaft gear will walk itself into the ring gear.
Test Take a small piece of wire (10 -12 gauge), pull the "S" terminal wire out of the starter and jump between the battery hook up on the starter and the "S" terminal. This eliminates everything upstream. If the starter engages fine the issue is upstream, meaning that the starter is not getting a full 12 volts to the solenoid. Causes
Bad relay The gauge of wire from the relay to the "S" terminal is too small (we recommend 12 ga) Loose connection. Another cause of clicking is the jackshaft bolt is too tight. It can cause the jackshaft to bind. In this case, slightly looser is better. The lock tab is enough to keep the bolt in place.When installing Velva Ride™ stabilizers...
When installing the Velva Ride engine stabilizers, always set the Velva Ride stabilizers to the same length as the stock stabilizers. If you think your engine is out of alignment, check your Harley manual for the proper way to align your engine.To change a tapered shaft 5-speed transmission to a splined shaft, you need to replace the mainshaft with a 1990 only mainshaft (OE # 35042-90 or Andrews # 296900). The shaft OD on the 1990 mainshaft is the same as 1989 & earlier. Then you must replace the clutch and basket assembly.
When installing Velva Touch™ Lifters...
Check to make sure the screw that holds the lifters in the block is tight. Do not over tighten; you could distort the lifter bores. Trial fit the lifters in the engine; make sure the lifters are free in the bores after you tighten them down. If any of the lifters tighten up in the bores after you tighten them down, remove the nose cone and check to see if the blocks are touching inside the engine. If they are, remove them and clear the blocks with a die grinder. For street bikes adjust the pushrod out 1 1/2 turns from zero lash. If you have a race bike adjust the front pushrods 7 wrench flats and the rear 4 wrench flats.NOTE: When installing any hydraulic lifter, always clean the tappet screen, which filters the oil to the lifters. NOTE: Always let the front lifters bleed down before rotating the engine to install the rear lifter blocks. When installing V Thunder Fast Times™ pushrods...
Turn the adjuster out 3 turns (18 flats) from zero lash.When installing Crane Timesaver™ pushrods...
Turn the adjuster out 3 turns (18 flats) from zero lash.When installing Rivera Taperlite™ pushrods...
Evo/Shovelhead/Early Twin Cam (40 THREADS PER INCH.) Turn the adjuster out 4-5 turns (20 to 30 flats) from zero lash. New Twin Cam (8/2009) 3 1/2 turns from zero lash.